1-Day Tour of Eastern Aruba

In addition to the vast Arikok National Park, eastern Aruba is home to the island's second largest city, San Nicolas, and several charming fishing villages and pristine beaches. Here you'll get a real sense of island life.

A Good Tour

From Oranjestad, go east on Route 1A to Route 4B and visit the Balashi Gold Mill Ruins and Frenchman's Pass. Return to 1A and continue your drive past Mangel Halto Beach to Savaneta, a fishing village and one of several residential areas with examples of typical Aruban homes. Follow 1A on to San Nicolas, where you can meander along the main promenade, pick up a few souvenirs, and grab a bite to eat. Heading out of town, continue on 1A until you hit a fork in the road; follow the signs toward Seroe Colorado, with the nearby natural bridge and the Colorado Point Lighthouse.

From here, follow the signs toward Rodgers Beach, just one of several area beaches where you can kick back for a while. Nearby Baby Beach, with calm waters and beautiful white sand, is a favorite spot for snorkelers. To the north, on Route 7B, is Boca Grandi, a great windsurfing spot. Next is Grapefield Beach, a stretch of glistening white sand against a backdrop of cliffs and boulder formations. Shortly beyond it on 7B, you'll come into Arikok National Park, where you can explore caves and tunnels, play on sand dunes, and stop at Mt. Yamanota, Aruba's highest elevation. Farther along 7B is Santa Cruz, where a wooden cross stands atop a hill to mark the spot where Christianity was introduced to the islanders. The same highway will take you all the way into Oranjestad.

Timing

You can follow the tour and see many of the sights in a half day, though it's easy to fill a full day if you spend time relaxing on a beach or exploring Arikok National Park.

Aruba's high season is traditionally winter -- from mid-December to mid-April -- when northern weather is at its worst. During this season you're guaranteed the most entertainment at resorts and the most people with whom to enjoy it. It's also the most fashionable, the most expensive, and the most popular time to visit -- and most hotels are heavily booked. You must make reservations at least two or three months in advance for the very best places. Hotel prices drop 20%-40% after April 15; cruise prices also fall.

Aruba's Best Beaches

The beaches on Aruba are legendary: white sand, turquoise waters, and virtually no litter -- everyone takes the no tira sushi (no littering) signs very seriously, especially considering the island's $280 fine. The major public beaches, which back up to the hotels along the southwestern strip, are usually crowded. You can make the hour-long hike from the Holiday Inn to the Tamarijn without ever leaving sand. Make sure you're well protected from the sun -- it scorches fast despite the cooling trade winds. Luckily, there's at least one covered bar (and often an ice-cream stand) at virtually every hotel. On the island's northeastern side, stronger winds make the waters too choppy for swimming, but the vistas are great and the terrain is wonderful for exploring.

Arashi Beach. Just after Malmok Beach, this is a 1-km (½-mi) stretch of gleaming white sand. Although it was once rocky, nature, with a little help from humans, has turned it into an excellent place for sunbathing and swimming. Despite calm waters, the reputation for rockiness has kept most people away, making it relatively uncrowded. West of Malmok Beach, on the west end, Aruba.

Baby Beach. On the island's eastern tip (near the refinery), this semicircular beach borders a bay that's as placid and just about as shallow as a wading pool -- perfect for tots, shore divers, and terrible swimmers. Thatched shaded areas are good for cooling off. Down the road is the island's rather unusual pet cemetery. Stop by the nearby snack truck for burgers, hot dogs, beer, and soda. The road to this beach (and several others) is through San Nicholas and along the road toward Seroe Colorado. Just before reaching the beach, keep an eye out for a strange 300-foot natural sea wall made of coral and rock that was thrown up overnight when Hurricane Ivan swept by the island in 2004. Near Seroe Colorado, on the east end, Aruba.

Boca Grandi. This is a great spot for windsurfers, but swimming is not advisable. It's near Seagrape Grove and the Aruba Golf Club toward the island's eastern tip. Near Seagrape Grove, on the east end, Aruba.

Boca Prins. You need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to make the trek here. Near the Fontein Cave and Blue Lagoon, this beach is about as large as a Brazilian bikini, but with two rocky cliffs and tumultuously crashing waves, it's as romantic as you get in Aruba. Boca Prins is famous for its backdrop of enormous vanilla sand dunes. This isn't a swimming beach, however. Bring a picnic, a beach blanket, and sturdy sneakers, and descend the rocks that form steps to the water's edge. Off 7 A/B, near the Fontein Cave, Aruba.

Eagle Beach. On the southwestern coast, across the highway from what is quickly becoming known as Time-Share Lane, is one of the Caribbean's -- if not the world's -- best beaches. Not long ago it was a nearly deserted stretch of pristine sand dotted with the occasional thatched picnic hut. Now that the resorts are completed, this mile-plus-long beach is always hopping. Although other Caribbean beaches eroded after Hurricane Ivan in 2004, Eagle Beach actually became several feet wider. J. E. Irausquin Blvd., north of Manchebo Beach, Aruba.

Fisherman's Huts. Next to the Holiday Inn is a windsurfer's haven. Swimming conditions are good, too. Take a picnic lunch (tables are available) and watch the elegant purple, aqua, and orange sails struggle in the wind. 1 A/B, at the Holiday Inn SunSpress Aruba, Aruba.

Grapefield Beach. To the southeast of San Nicolas, a sweep of blinding white sand in the shadow of cliffs and boulders is marked by a memorial shaped like an anchor dedicated to all seamen. Pick sea grapes in high season (January to June). Swim at your own risk; the waves here can be rough. Southwest of San Nicholas, on the east end, Aruba.

Malmok Beach. On the northwestern shore, this small, nondescript beach (where some of Aruba's wealthiest families have built tony residences) borders shallow waters that stretch 300 yards from shore. It's the perfect place to learn to windsurf. Right off the coast here is a favorite haunt for divers and snorkelers -- the wreck of the German ship Antilla, scuttled in 1940. Take J. E. Irausquin Boulevard. to the very end of the road. At the end of J. E. Irausquin Blvd., Malmokweg, Aruba.

Manchebo Beach (Punta Brabo). Impressively wide, the shoreline in front of the Manchebo Beach Resort is where officials turn a blind eye to the occasional topless sunbather. J. E. Irausquin Blvd., at the Manchebo Beach Resort, Aruba.

Palm Beach. This stretch runs from the Wyndham Aruba Beach Resort & Casino to the Marriott Aruba Ocean Club. It's the center of Aruban tourism, offering good opportunities for swimming, sailing, and other water sports. In some spots you might find a variety of shells that are great to collect, but not as much fun to step on barefoot -- bring sandals just in case. J. E. Irausquin Blvd., between the Wyndham Aruba Beach Resort and the Marriott Aruba Ocean Club, Aruba.

Rodger Beach. Near Baby Beach on the island's eastern tip, this is a beautiful curving stretch of sand only slightly marred by its proximity to the oil refinery at the bay's far side. Swimming conditions are excellent here, as demonstrated by the local kids diving off the piers. The snack bar at the water's edge has beach equipment rentals and a shop. Local bands play Sunday nights from Easter through summer. Drive around the refinery perimeter to get here. Next to Baby Beach, on the east end, Aruba.

Aruba's Best Sports & Outdoors

Bouldering

An up-and-coming sport popular with locals is bouldering. It's similar to mountain climbing and rappelling, only up and down the boulders of the Ayo rock formations or the eastern cliffs, which are more porous and can be dangerous. The Hyatt Regency Aruba Beach Resort & Casino can make arrangements for large groups to be guided, by sergeants of the Royal Dutch Marines, no less.

Bowling

The Eagle Bowling Palace (Sasakiweg, Pos Abou, Oranjestad, PHONE: 297/8-35038) has 16 lanes, a cocktail lounge, and snack bar; it's open daily 10 AM to 2 AM. One lane for one hour will cost you $5.75-$11.50, depending on the time you play; shoes rent for $1.20.

Fishing

With catches including barracuda, kingfish, bonito, and black and yellow tuna, deep-sea fishing is great sport on Aruba. Many charter boats are available for half- or full-day sails. Half-day tours, including all equipment, soft drinks, and a box lunch, are around $250 for up to four people; full-day tours run about $500.

De Palm Tours (L. G. Smith Blvd. 142, Oranjestad, PHONE: 800/766-6016) runs deep-sea fishing tours seven days a week. It costs $275 to charter a boat for four hours.

Pelican Tours & Watersports (J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 230, Oranjestad, PHONE: 297/8-72302) offers daily boat charters from 8 AM to noon for deep-sea fishing, mostly on the south coast.

Red Sail Sports (J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 83, Oranjestad, PHONE: 297/8-61603; 877/REDSAIL in the U.S.) offers half-day fishing trips for $300 and full-day trips for $600 through Northern Lights fishing company. The price includes all fishing equipment; add $25 per person for more than four people.

Golf

Aruba Golf Club (Golfweg 82, near San Nicolas, PHONE: 297/8-42006) has a 9-hole course with 20 sand traps and 5 water traps, roaming goats, and lots of cacti. There are 11 AstroTurf greens, making 18-hole tournaments a possibility. The clubhouse has a bar and locker rooms. The course's official U.S. Golf Association rating is 67; greens fees are $10 for 9 holes, $18 for 18 holes. Caddies and club rentals are available.

The driving range is the key feature of Brown Golf & Leisure (J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 326, Oranjestad, PHONE: 297/8-64589), a massive new family fun center. The complex (open from 7 AM to 11 PM) also offers putting greens, a chipping area, and golf clinics for players seeking to perfect their game. Not golfing? Hit the batting cages, the game room, or the playground.

The Tierra del Sol (Malmokweg, PHONE: 297/8-60978) is on the northwest coast near the California Lighthouse. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., this 18-hole, par-71, 6,811-yard championship course combines Aruba's native beauty -- flora, cacti, and rock formations -- with the lush greens of the world's best courses. The $130 greens fee includes a golf cart; club rentals are $35.

Two elevated 18-hole miniature golf courses surrounded by a moat are available at Joe Mendez Miniature Adventure Golf (Sasakiweg, Oranjestad, PHONE: 297/8-76625). There are also paddleboats and bumper boats, a bar, and a snack stand. A round of 18 holes costs $6.50, and you can play between 5 PM and 1 AM during the week; from noon on the weekends.

Hiking

Hiking in Arikok National Wildlife Park is generally not too strenuous, although you should exercise caution with the strong sun -- bring plenty of water and wear sunscreen and a sun hat or visor. Sturdy, cleated shoes are a must to grip the granular, occasionally steep terrain. There are more than 20 mi (34 km) of trails, and it's important to stick to them. Look for different colors on signs to determine the degree of difficulty. The park is crowned by Aruba's second-highest mountain, the 577-ft (176-m) Mt. Arikok, so climbing is also a possibility.

De Palm Tours (PHONE: 297/8-24400 or 800/766-6016) offers a guided three-hour trip to sites of unusual natural beauty that are accessible only on foot. The fee is $25 per person, including refreshments and transportation; a minimum of four people is required.

Horseback Riding

Four ranches offer short jaunts along the beach or longer trail rides through countryside flanked by cacti, divi-divi trees, and aloe vera plants. Ask if you can stop off at Conchi, a natural pool that's reputed to have restorative powers. Rides are also possible in the Arikok National Wildlife Park. Rates run from $25 for an hour-long trip to $65 for a 3½-hour tour. Private rides cost slightly more. Some tour operators, like De Palm Tours, can arrange treks.

Rancho del Campo (Sombre 22E, PHONE: 297/8-50290) offers rides to the natural bridge (Tuesday and Friday, $60) or the natural pool and Arikok Hill -- including snorkeling and galloping around the sand dunes (seven days a week at 9 AM or 3 PM, $50).

Rancho Daimari (Plantage Daimari, PHONE: 297/8-60239) escorts riders to the national park and the natural pool seven days a week, 8:30 AM and 2 PM for $50.

Rancho Notorious (Boroncana, Noord, PHONE: 297/8-60508) offers trips that last 3¼ hours around the western side of the island, seven days a week. For $65 per person, the tour includes views of the countryside, beach, and lighthouse, with free hotel pickup (morning or afternoon).

Kayaking

Kayaking is a popular sport on Aruba's calm waters.

De Palm Tours (PHONE: 800/766-6016) offers the Aruba Kayak Adventure -- a four-hour guided kayaking tour with lunch and snorkeling Monday-Saturday; the cost is $80.

Parasailing

Motorboats from Palm and Eagle beaches tow people up and over the water for about 12 minutes ($45 for a single-seater, $75 for a tandem). There's no official center where you can make arrangements, just independent operators stationed on the beaches.

Caribbean Parasail (PHONE: 297/8-60505) is one operator you can call.

Scuba Diving and Snorkeling

With visibility up to 90 ft (27 m), Aruban waters are excellent for snorkeling and diving. Certified divers can go wall or reef diving or explore wrecks sunk during World War II. All sites have several varieties of coral, fish ranging in size from grunts to groupers, sensuously waving sea fans, giant sponge tubes, gliding manta rays, sea turtles, lobsters, octopuses, and green moray eels. Pick up the Aruba Tourism Authority's brochure "The Island for Water Sports," which describes many more sites for novice and professional divers. The best shore diving is at Baby Beach.

The Antilla -- a German freighter sunk off the northwest coast of Aruba near Malmok Beach -- is popular with both divers and snorkelers.

From Malmok Reef you can see the Debbie II, a 120-ft barge sunk in 1992.

Mangel Halto Reef (also known as Pos Chiquito Reef or Bao Baranca) is excellent for night diving.

The Jane Sea Wreck is a 200-ft freighter lying in an almost vertical position at a depth of 90 ft (27 m).

Pedernalis, for novice divers, has large pieces of wreck spread out among coral formations.

Expect snorkel gear to rent for about $15 per day and trips to cost around $40. Scuba rates are around $40 for a one-tank reef or wreck dive, $65 for a two-tank dive, and $45 for a night dive. Resort courses (introduction to scuba diving) average $70; complete open-water certification costs around $300.

De Palm Tours (PHONE: 800/766-6016) offers daily snorkeling and scuba-diving trips. The Fun Factory snorkeling adventure is a four-hour catamaran ride to shipwrecks and snorkeling sites and includes an open bar, lunch, equipment, and lessons.

For a real treat, try the four-hour snorkel, sail, open-bar, and lunch cruise aboard the Mi Dushi (PHONE: 297/8-28919), a beautifully restored 1925 Swedish sailboat. Two stops are made for snorkeling; save your energy for the second one at the wreck of the Antilla. The cost is $45.

Pelican Tours & Watersports (PHONE: 297/586-3271) offers snorkeling and scuba diving, as well as scuba instruction and certification. It also leads wreck and night dives at reasonable rates.

Red Sail Sports (PHONE: 297/8-61603; 877/REDSAIL in the U.S.) offers scuba packages, resort courses, PADI-certification courses, night diving, and underwater camera rental. Four-hour snorkeling trips to Antilla, Catalina Bay, and Arashi include lunch and equipment. The 1½-hour sunset sail has an open bar and snacks.

Through Aruba Pro Dive (Ponton 88, PHONE: 297/8-25520) divers can book one-tank dives or two-tank dives to the Antilla shipwreck, the Sonesta airplane, and other dive sites.

Scuba Aruba (Seaport Village Mall, L. G. Smith Blvd. 82, Oranjestad, PHONE: 297/8-34142) sells diving equipment, snorkels, and masks, and books diving trips with other dive operators.

Unique Sports of Aruba (L. G. Smith Blvd. 79, Oranjestad, PHONE: 297/8-63900) offers an assortment of dive packages for all levels, from novice to expert.

Tennis

Aruba's winds make tennis a challenge even if you have the best of swings, but world-class tennis facilities are available at the Aruba Racquet Club (Rooisanto 21, Palm Beach, PHONE: 297/8-60215). The $1.4-million club was designed by Stan Smith Design International and is near the Aruba Marriott. Host to a variety of international tournaments, the club has eight courts (six lighted), as well as a swimming pool, an aerobics center, and a restaurant. Court fees are $10 per hour; a lesson with a pro costs $20 for ½ hour, $40 for 1 hour.

Windsurfing

The southwestern coast's tranquil waters make it ideal for both beginners and intermediates, as the winds are steady. Still, sudden gusts are rare. Experts will find the Atlantic coast, especially around Grapefield and Boca Grandi beaches, more challenging; winds are fierce and often shift course without warning. Most operators also offer complete windsurfing vacation packages.

Pelican Tours & Watersports (PHONE: 297/586-3271) rents equipment and offers classes with a certified Mistral instructor. Beginner group lessons cost about $50; rentals start at $65 per day.

Sailboard Vacations (L. G. Smith Blvd. 462, Malmok Beach, PHONE: 297/8-61072) offers lessons and equipment rental.

On the Menu

The finest restaurants require at the most only a jacket for men and a sundress for women. Still, after a day on the beach, even this might feel formal. For a truly casual bite, visit one of Aruba's ice cream trucks or frietjes (pushcarts) for inexpensive, authentic Aruban finger food. Two worth the trip are El Rey Snack Truck near the Seaport Cinemas in Oranjestad, for freshly fried chicken, pork chops, and fries, and The Cellar Frietje in Oranjestad's Seaport Village Marketplace, for the best saté in town. Other island delicacies include the following:

Bitterballen: steaming, bite-size meatballs. The long versions are served with mustard and called kroket. Locals wash both varieties down with beer.

Frekedel: a shredded fish dipped in egg and bread crumbs, rolled into balls, and deep fried.

Friet or Batata: french fries -- served in paper cones or Styrofoam cups -- that can be topped with ketchup; mayo; curry, peanut, or hot sauce; onions; and more.

Keshi Yena: a baked concoction of Gouda cheese, spices, and meat or seafood in a rich brown sauce.

Nasibal: a lump of seasoned rice in a crunchy coating.

Pan Bati: a pancake made of cornmeal flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder; eaten with meat, fish, or soup.

Pastechi: deep-fried meat, cheese, potato, or seafood-filled turnovers, popular for breakfast. Smaller versions are called empanas.

Raspao: a paper cup full of shaved ice that's drenched in tamarind, guava, or passion fruit syrup.

Roti: chicken, seafood, or vegetable curry in a tortilla-like wrap.

Saté: marinated chunks of chicken or pork on a bamboo skewer, grilled and served with spicy peanut sauce.

Tosti: the ultimate grilled-cheese sandwich, often made with ham and pineapple or pepperoni.

Same Only Different

If you have seen one Caribbean island you have by no means seen them all. The Caribbean has towering volcanic islands, such as Saba; islands with lush rain forests, such as Dominica, St. Lucia, Martinique, and Guadeloupe; and some islands, notably Puerto Rico, that have both jungles and arid climes. You'll find glittering discos, casinos, and dazzling nightlife on such islands as Aruba and Puerto Rico, and in the Dominican Republic, which occupies the eastern two-thirds of the island of Hispaniola.

There are also isolated cays with only sand, sea, sun, lizards, and mosquitoes. Some islands -- Puerto Rico and St. Kitts among them -- have ancient forts to view; others (Barbados and the Caicos Islands) have caverns and caves to explore. There are also places like Grand Turk and Little Cayman, where the only notable sights are beneath the translucent sea.

Different though they are in many ways, the islands are stylistically similar. The style setter is the tropical climate. Year-round summertime temperatures and a plethora of beaches produce a pace known as "island time." Only the trade winds move swiftly. Operating on island time means "I'll get to it when the spirit moves me."

Similarities among the islands are also attributable to the history of the region. The agrarian Arawaks paddled up from South America and populated the islands more than 1,000 years ago. In the early 14th century the mighty Caribs, who gave the area its name, arrived, probably from Brazil or Venezuela, gradually pushing the Arawaks up the spine of the Caribbean. (The original name of the Caribs was Galibi, a word the Spanish corrupted to Canibal -- the origin of the word "cannibal.") Both tribes (as well as the peaceful Taino people of Puerto Rico, Hispaniola, Cuba, and Jamaica) had remarkably sophisticated cultures and elaborate sociological systems.

Christopher Columbus made four voyages through the region between 1492 and 1504, christening the islands while dodging Carib arrows. He landed on or sailed past all of the Greater Antilles and virtually all of the eastern Caribbean islands. From the 16th century until the early 19th century the Dutch, Danes, Swedes, English, French, and Spanish fought bitterly for control of the islands -- some have almost as many battle sites as sand flies. After gaining control of the islands and annihilating the remaining Arawaks (mostly through diseases brought from Europe) and Caribs (mostly by sword and musket), the Europeans established vast sugar plantations and brought in Africans to work the fields. With the abolition of slavery in the mid-19th century, Asians were imported as indentured laborers.

Today the Caribbean is made up of individual countries, each with customs, immigration officials, and, in some instances, political difficulties. Most islands have opted for independence; others retain ties to a mother country. They're developing nations, and many have severe economic problems. Virtually all of the islands depend on tourism. And, human nature being what it is, many islanders resent their dependency on tourist dollars. Like as not, the person who serves you has stood in a long line, vying with other anxious applicants for the few available jobs. After serving your meals or cleaning your luxurious room, he or she returns to a tiny shack knowing full well that in less than a week you will have shelled out more than an islander makes in a month.

Some visitors object to encountering resentment when all they seek is a pleasant vacation and they've paid dearly for it. Some feel rather keenly that they'd always like hot water -- or at least some water -- when they turn on the shower. In even the most luxurious resorts there are times when things simply don't work: it's a fact of Caribbean life. No matter how diligent the upkeep, humidity and salt air take their toll, and cracked tiles and chipped paint are common everywhere. Many first-time visitors also forget that they're in the tropics and find it hard to get used to some of the fauna (a lizard scurrying away at the opening of a door is a common sight). Still other visitors simply have no patience with island time. There are those, however, who travel to the Caribbean year after year. Some return to the same hotel on the same beach on the same island, while others try to sample as much as this smorgasbord has to offer.

Which Island for You? A Sampling of Island Culture

The Caribbean population is a rich gumbo of nationalities, including Americans and Canadians who have retired to and invested in the islands. Little remains of the indigenous populations (there are Carib communities on Dominica and St. Vincent, as well as tantalizing, if sparse, archaeological remains), and many other groups have left their cultural imprint on the Caribbean.

Nowhere is African culture more noticeable than in island music. Calypso was born in Trinidad, and its catchy rhythms veil the barbed working-class satire of many of the lyrics. The island is also the stomping ground of a flat-out, freewheeling Carnival that rivals the pre-Lenten celebrations in Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans.

Jamaica is the home of reggae, the Rastafarian sound that has racial, political, and religious undertones. The wild, pulsating merengue, born in the Dominican Republic, is danced exuberantly everywhere on the island.

On Puerto Rico you'll find the slightly less frenzied salsa, whose range encompasses unabashed hip-swiveling tunes and wailing ballads lamenting lost love.

Martinique and Guadeloupe claim to be the cradle of the sinuous beguine, whose lilting rhythm sways like the palm trees. The music that animates Barbados ranges from soca (a mix of soul and calypso) and calypso to the hottest jazz. St. Lucia is also proud of its annual Jazz Festival (held in May). On many islands zouk (with a syncopated beat, almost a Caribbean/House mix) is now the rage.

It was from St. Kitts, known as the Mother Colony of the West Indies, that British colonists were dispatched in the 17th century to settle Antigua, Barbuda, Tortola, and Montserrat. If you're a history buff you won't want to miss a host of sites such as the beautifully restored Nelson's Dockyard (as in Horatio, Lord) at Antigua's English Harbour; Port Royal, outside Kingston, Jamaica, a pirate stronghold until an earthquake shook things up in 1692; or the hunkering fortress of Brimstone Hill on St. Kitts.

Sports fans who understand the intricacies of cricket can watch matches between Nevis and St. Kitts teams. And the waters around Antigua and the BVI are a mecca for serious sailors. Barbados, with its lovely trade winds, has cricket, horse racing at Garrison Savannah, and rugby.

Saba, St. Eustatius, St. Maarten, Bonaire, and Curaçao all fly the Dutch flag, but they're laced with subtle differences. Saba is a tiny volcanic island known for its beauty, its friendly inhabitants, and its gingerbread-trimmed houses. Curaçao's colorful waterfront shops and restaurants are reminiscent of Amsterdam. Quiet St. Eustatius -- affectionately called Statia -- has well-preserved historical sites and is famed for being the first foreign nation to salute the new American flag in 1776. The streets of Philipsburg, the capital of St. Maarten, are lined with colorful Dutch colonial buildings replete with fretwork and verandas. Bonaire is best known for its excellent scuba diving.

Martinique, Guadeloupe, St. Martin, and St. Barthélemy (often called St. Barts, St. Barths, or St. Barth's) compose the French West Indies. The language, the currency, the culture, and the style are très French. St. Barths is the quietest (and most chic), Martinique the liveliest, St. Martin the friendliest, and Guadeloupe the lushest.

In the Dominican Republic, which occupies the eastern two-thirds of the island of Hispaniola, the language and culture are decidedly Spanish. The Colonial Zone of Santo Domingo is the site of the oldest city in the Western Hemisphere; its restored buildings reflect the 15th-century Columbus period. You also get a sense of the past in Puerto Rico's Old San Juan, with its narrow cobblestone streets and filigreed iron balconies.

When to Go to Aruba

Aruba's popularity means that hotels are usually booked solid during the high season from late November through May, so early booking is essential. During other times of the year, rate reductions can be dramatic. Aruba doesn't really have a rainy season and rarely sees a hurricane, so you take fewer chances by coming here during the late summer and fall.

February or March witnesses a spectacular Carnival, a riot of color whirling to the tunes of steel bands and culminating in the Grand Parade, where some of the floats rival the extravagance of those in the Big Easy's Mardi Gras.

Holidays

Public holidays are New Year's Day, Betico Croes's Birthday (a politician who aided Aruba's transition to semi-independence; Jan. 25), Carnival Monday (Mon. before Ash Wednesday, usually in Feb.), National Anthem and Flag Day (Mar. 18), Good Friday (varies), Easter Monday (varies), Queen's Birthday (Apr. 30), Labor Day (May 1), Ascension Day (May 9), Christmas Day, Boxing Day (Dec. 26).

Top 4 Reasons to Visit Aruba

Nightlife is among the best in the Caribbean. The colorful Kukoo Kunuku party bus picks you up and pours you out at your hotel.

Powder-soft beaches and turquoise waters are legendary.

Great restaurants offer a wide range of cuisine as good as any in the Caribbean.

Aruba's casinos aren't as glitzy as their Las Vegas rivals, but they will please both casual and serious gamblers.

Aruba Outdoors

On Aruba you can participate in every conceivable water sport, as well as play tennis and golf or go on a fine hike through Arikok National Park.

Biking

Pedal pushing is a great way to get around the island; the climate is perfect, and the trade winds help to keep you cool. Melchor Cycle rental (Bubali 106B, Noord, Aruba. PHONE: 297/587-1787) rents ATVs and bikes. Rancho Notorious (Boroncana, Noord, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-0508, www.ranchonotorious.com) organizes mountain-biking tours.

Day Sails

If you try a cruise around the island, know that the choppy waters are stirred up by trade winds and that catamarans are much smoother than single-hull boats. Sucking on a peppermint or lemon candy may help a queasy stomach; avoid boating with an empty or overly full stomach. Moonlight cruises cost about $25 per person. There are also a variety of snorkeling, dinner and dancing, and sunset party cruises to choose from, priced from $25 to $60 per person. Many of the smaller operators work out of their homes; they often offer to pick you up (and drop you off) at your hotel or meet you at a particular hotel pier.

Octopus Sailing Cruises (Sali-a Cerca 1G, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/583-3081, www.octopus-aruba.com) operates a trimaran that holds about 20 people at a time. The drinks flow freely during the three-hour afternoon sail that costs $25. Having a captain named Jethro is almost worth the price of admission by itself. Red Sail Sports (J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 83, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-1603; 877/733-7245 in U.S., www.aruba-redsail.com) offers a number of sail packages aboard its four catamarans, including the 70-foot Rumba. The popular Sunset Sail includes drinks and a lively atmosphere for $35 per person. The dinner cruise package includes a three-course meal and open bar for $85. There are also locations at the Hyatt and Allegro. Tranquilo Charters Aruba (Sibelius St. 25, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-1418, www.visitaruba.com/tranquilo), operated by Captain Hagedoorn, offers entertaining cruises including a six-hour cruise to the south side of the island with lunch for $65. As strange as it sounds, the special "mom's Dutch pea soup" served with lunch is actually very good. Snorkeling equipment and free lessons are included in the package. Wave Dancer Cruises (Ponton 90, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/582-5520, www.arubawavedancer.com), in business since the mid-1980s, offers excellent value for the money. Sunset sails are $25 including drinks and snacks, and half-day sails are $50 including snacks, lunch, and drinks. Snorkeling packages are also available.

Diving & Snorkeling

With visibility of up to 90 feet, the waters around Aruba are excellent for snorkeling and diving. Both advanced and novice divers will find plenty to occupy their time, as many of the most popular sites, including some interesting shipwrecks, are found in shallow waters ranging from 30 feet to 60 feet. Coral reefs covered with sensuously waving sea fans and eerie giant sponge tubes attract a colorful menagerie of sea life, including gliding manta rays, curious sea turtles, shy octopuses, and fish from grunts to groupers. Marine preservation is a priority on Aruba, and regulations by the Conference on International Trade in Endangered Species make it unlawful to remove coral, conch, and other marine life from the water.

Expect snorkel gear to rent for about $15 per day and trips to cost around $40. Scuba rates are around $50 for a one-tank reef or wreck dive, $65 for a two-tank dive, and $45 for a night dive. Resort courses, which offer an introduction to scuba diving, average $65 to $70. If you want to go all the way, complete open-water certification costs around $300.

The more seasoned diving crowd might check with Aruba Pro Dive (Ponton 88, Noord, Aruba. PHONE: 297/582-5520, www.arubaprodive.com) for special deals. Dax Divers (Kibaima 7, Santa Cruz, Aruba. PHONE: 297/585-1270) has an instructor-training course. Some dives are less expensive, at $40 for 40 minutes with one tank and weights. De Palm Tours (L. G. Smith Blvd. 142, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/582-4400 or 800/766-6016, www.depalm.com) is one of the best options for your undersea experience, and the options go beyond basic diving. You can don a helmet and walk along the ocean floor near De Palm Island, home of huge blue parrot fish. You can even do snuba -- which is like scuba diving but without the heavy air tanks -- either from a boat or from an island; it costs $55. Dive Aruba (Williamstraat 8, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/582-4554, www.divearuba.com) offers resort courses, certification courses, and trips to interesting shipwrecks. Mermaid Sport Divers (Manchebo Beach Resort, J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 55A, Eagle Beach, Aruba. PHONE: 297/587-4103, www.scubadivers-aruba.com) has dive packages with PADI-certified instructors. Native Divers Aruba (Koyari 1, Noord, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-4763, www.nativedivers.com) offers all types of dives. Underwater naturalist courses are taught by PADI-certified instructors. Pelican Tours & Watersports (Pelican Pier, near the Holiday Inn and Playa Linda hotels, Palm Beach, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-3271, www.pelican-aruba.com) has options for divers of all levels. Novices start with mid-morning classes and then move to the pool to practice what they've learned; by afternoon they put their new skills to use at a shipwreck off the coast. Red Sail Sports (J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 83, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-1603; 877/733-7245 in U.S., www.aruba-redsail.com) has courses for children and others new to scuba diving. An introductory class costs about $80.

Fishing

Deep-sea catches here include barracuda, kingfish, wahoo, bonito, and black-and-yellow tuna. November to April is the catch-and-release season for sailfish and marlin. Many skippered charter boats are available for half- or full-day sails. Packages include tackle, bait, and refreshments. Prices range from $220 to $320 for a half-day charter and from $400 to $600 for a full day.

Pelican Tours & Watersports (Pelican Pier, near the Holiday Inn and Playa Linda hotels, Palm Beach, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-3271, www.pelican-aruba.com) is not just for the surf-and-snorkel crowd; the company will help you catch trophy-size fish. Red Sail Sports (J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 83, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-1603; 877/733-7245 in U.S., www.aruba-redsail.com) can arrange everything for your fishing trip. Captain Kenny of Teaser Charters (St. Vincentweg 5, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/582-5088, www.teasercharters.com) runs a thrilling expedition. The expertise of the crew is matched by a commitment to sensible fishing practices, making this an excellent as well as enjoyable choice. The company's two boats are fully equipped, and the crew seem to have an uncanny ability to locate the best fishing spots.

Golf

The Aruba Golf Club (Golfweg 82, San Nicolas, Aruba. PHONE: 297/584-2006) has a 9-hole course with 20 sand traps and five water traps, roaming goats, and lots of cacti. There are also 11 greens covered with artificial turf, making 18-hole tournaments a possibility. The clubhouse has a bar and locker rooms. Greens fees are $10 for 9 holes, $15 for 18 holes. Golf carts are available. Aruba-bound golfers can rejoice, because The Links at Divi Aruba (J. E. Irasquin Blvd. 93, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/581-4653), a 9-hole course designed by Karl Litten and Lorie Viola, opened in 2004. The par-36 course on paspalum grass (best for seaside courses) takes you past beautiful lagoons. Amenities include a golf school with professional instruction, a swing analysis station, a driving range, and a two-story golf clubhouse with a pro shop. Two restaurants serving contemporary American cuisine with Caribbean accents are par for the course. Greens fees are $70 for 9 holes, $105 for 18 (high season); guests of the Divi Villlage Golf & Beach Resort pay a reduced rate. Tierra del Sol (Malmokweg, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-0978), a stunning course, is on the northwest coast near the California Lighthouse. Designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr., this 18-hole championship course combines Aruba's native beauty -- cacti and rock formations -- with the lush greens of the world's best courses. The $145 greens fee includes a golf cart equipped with a communications system that allows you to order drinks for your return to the clubhouse. Half-day golf clinics (Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday), a bargain at $45, include lunch in the clubhouse. The pro shop is one of the Caribbean's most elegant, with an extremely attentive staff.

Horseback Riding

Ranches offer short jaunts along the beach or longer rides along trails passing through countryside flanked by cacti, divi-divi trees, and aloe vera plants. Ask if you can stop off at Cura di Tortuga, a natural pool that's reputed to have restorative powers. Rides are also possible in the Arikok National Park. Rates run from $25 for an hour-long trip to $65 for a three-hour tour. Private rides cost slightly more.

Rancho Daimari (Tanki Leendert 249, San Nicholas, Aruba. PHONE: 297/587-5674, www.visitaruba.com/ranchodaimari) will lead your horse to water -- either at Natural Bridge or Natural Pool -- in the morning or afternoon for $55 per person. The "Junior Dudes" program is tailored for young riders. They even have ATV trips. Rancho Notorious (Boroncana, Noord, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-0508, www.ranchonotorious.com) will take you on a tour of the countryside for $50, to the beach to snorkel for $55, or on a three-hour ride up to the California Lighthouse for $65. The company also organizes ATV and mountain-biking trips.

Kayaking

Kayaking is a popular sport on Aruba, especially along the south coast, where the waters are calm. It's a great way to explore a stretch of coastline. Aruba Kayak Adventure (Ponton 90, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/587-7722, www.arubawavedancer.com/arubakayak) has excellent half-day kayak trips, which start with a quick lesson before you begin paddling through caves and mangroves, and along the scenic coastline. The tour makes a lunch stop at De Palm Island, where snorkeling is included as part of the $77 package.

Sightseeing Tours

You can see the main sights in one day, but set aside two days to meander. Romantic horse-drawn carriage rides through the city streets of Oranjestad run $30 for a 30-minute tour; hours of operation are from 7 PM to 11 PM, and carriages depart from the clock tower at the Royal Plaza Mall. Guided tours are your best option if you have only a short time.

Aruba's Transfer Tour & Taxi (Pos Abao 41, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/582-2116) will take you to the main sights on personalized tours that cost $30 per hour. De Palm Tours (L. G. Smith Blvd. 142, Oranjestad, Aruba. PHONE: 297/582-4400 or 800/766-6016, www.depalm.com) has a near monopoly on Aruban sightseeing; you can make reservations through its general office or at hotel tour-desk branches. The basic 3½-hour tour hits such highlights as the Santa Anna Church, the Casibari Rock Formation, the Natural Bridge, and the Gold Smelter Ruins. Wear tennis or hiking shoes, and bring a lightweight jacket or wrap, as the air-conditioned bus gets cold.

Submarine Excursions

Explore an underwater reef teeming with marine life without getting wet. Atlantis Submarines (Renaissance Marina, Aruba. PHONE: 297/583-6090, www.atlantisadventures.net) operates a 65-foot air-conditioned sub, Atlantis VI, which takes 48 passengers 95 to 150 feet below the surface along Barcadera Reef. The company also owns the Seaworld Explorer, a semisubmersible that allows you to sit and view Aruba's marine habitat from 5 feet below the surface. Make reservations a day in advance.

Windsurfing

The southwestern coast's tranquil waters make windsurfing conditions ideal for both beginners and intermediates, as the winds are steady but sudden gusts rare. Experts will find the Atlantic coast, especially around Grapefield and Boca Grandi beaches, more challenging; winds are fierce and often shift course without warning. Most operators also offer complete windsurfing vacation packages. The up-and-coming sport of kite surfing (sometimes called kiteboarding) is also popular on Aruba.

Aruba Boardsailing Productions (L. G. Smith Blvd. 486, Palm Beach, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-3940 or 297/993-1111, www.visitaruba.com/arubaboardsailing) is a major windsurfing center on the island. Pelican Tours & Watersports (Pelican Pier, near Holiday Inn and Playa Linda hotels, Palm Beach, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-3271, www.pelican-aruba.com) usually has boards and sails on hand. Sailboard Vacations (L. G. Smith Blvd. 462, Malmok Beach, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-2527, www.sailboardvacations.com) offers complete windsurf packages, including accommodation. Equipment can be rented for about $60 a day. Trade jokes and snap photos with your fellow windsurfers at Vela Aruba (L. G. Smith Blvd. 101, Palm Beach, Aruba. PHONE: 297/586-9000 Ext. 6430, www.velawindsurf.com). This is the place to make friends. It's a major kite surfing center as well.

Papiamento Primer

Arubans enjoy it when visitors use their language, so don't be shy. You can buy a Papiamento dictionary to build your vocabulary, but here are a few pleasantries -- including some terms of friendship and love -- to get you started:

Bon dia. Good morning.

Bon tardi. Good afternoon.

Bon nochi. Good evening/night.

Bon bini. Welcome.

Ajo. Bye.

Te aworo. See you later.

Pasa un bon dia. Have a good day.

Danki. Thank you.

Na bo ordo. You're welcome.

Con ta bai? How are you?

Mi ta bon. I am fine.

Ban goza! Let's enjoy!

Pabien! Congratulations!

Quanto costa esaki? How much is this?

Hopi bon Very good

Ami Me

Abo You

Nos dos The two of us

Mi dushi My sweetheart

Ku tur mi amor With all my love

Un braza A hug

Un sunchi A kiss

Ranka lenga To French kiss

Mi stima Aruba. I love Aruba.

Cunucu Houses

Pastel houses surrounded by cacti fences adorn Aruba's flat, rugged cunucu ("country" in Papiamento). The features of these traditional houses were developed in response to the environment. Early settlers discovered that slanting roofs allowed the heat to rise and that small windows helped to keep in the cool air. Among the earliest building materials was caliche, a durable calcium carbonate substance found in the island's southeastern hills. Many houses were also built using interlocking coral rocks that didn't require mortar (this technique is no longer used, thanks to cement and concrete). Contemporary design combines some of the basic principles of the earlier homes with touches of modernization: windows, though still narrow, have been elongated; roofs are constructed of bright tiles; pretty patios have been added; and doorways and balconies present an ornamental face to the world beyond.

Good Luck Charms

Arubans take myths and superstitions very seriously. They flinch if a black butterfly flits into their home, because this symbolizes death. They gasp if a child crawls under their legs, because it's a sign that the baby won't grow anymore. And on New Year's Eve, they toss the first sips of whiskey, rum, or champagne from the first bottle that's opened in the New Year out the door of their house to show respect to those who have died and to wish luck on others. It's no surprise, then, that good luck charms are part of Aruba's casino culture as well.

The island's most common good luck charm is the djucu (pronounced joo-koo), a brown-and-black stone that comes from the sea and becomes hot when rubbed. They're sold at the convenience store near the Natural Bridge, and many people have them put in gold settings -- with their initials engraved in the metal -- and wear them around their necks on a chain with other charms such as an anchor or a cross. Another item that's thought to bring good luck is a small bag of sand. Women wear them tucked discreetly into their bras; one woman who visited Aruba every year always carried a few cloves of garlic in her bag. On a recent visit, she removed the garlic, placed it on a slot machine, and won $1,000 instantly. All the more reason to save the scraps from your salad plate when you leave dinner.

Aruban Brew

There was a time when you could walk into any bar in Aruba and get a glass of water by asking for a Balashi Cocktail. (The name came from the fact that the desalination plant is in an area known as Balashi.) Since the creation of Balashi, the first locally brewed beer, such a drink order has a whole new meaning. Made by a German brewmaster in a state-of-the-art facility using only the finest hops and malt, Balashi is golden-colored pilsner.

Balashi is a source of local pride, even more so since it won the prestigious Monde Selection at an international competition in 2001. Visitors love it as well. "It's a big tourist thing," explains Gerben Tilma, general manager of the plant. "Everyone wants to know what the best local products are. Now we can tell them."

The Balashi Brewery has free 30-minute tours that begin every half hour between 10 AM and 2 PM daily. There's also a souvenir shop, a café, and a 10,000-square-foot beer garden where you can enjoy a cold one.

Carnival in Aruba

Aruba's biggest bash incorporates local traditions with those of Venezuela, Brazil, Holland, and North America. Here, Carnival consists of six weeks of jump-ups (traditional Caribbean street celebrations), competitions, parties, and colorful parades. The celebrations culminate with the Grand Parade held in Oranjestad on the Sunday before Ash Wednesday. It lasts for hours and turns the streets into one big stage. The two main events are the Grand Children's Parade, where kids dress in colorful costumes and decorate floats, and the Lightning Parade, consisting of miles of glittery floats and lavish costumes. Steel-pan and brass bands supply the music that inspires the crowds to dance. All events end on Shrove Tuesday: at midnight an effigy of King Momo (traditionally depicted as a fat man) is burned, indicating the end of joy and the beginning of Lenten penitence.

Casual Bites

The finest restaurants require at the most only a jacket for men and a sundress for women. Still, after a day on the beach, even this might feel formal. For a truly casual bite, visit one of Aruba's ice cream trucks or frietjes (pushcarts) for inexpensive, authentic Aruban finger food. Two worth the trip are El Rey Snack Truck near the Seaport Cinemas in Oranjestad, for freshly fried chicken, pork chops, and fries, and The Cellar Frietje in Oranjestad's Seaport Village Marketplace, for the best saté in town. Other island delicacies include the following:

Bitterballen: steaming, bite-size meatballs. The long versions are served with mustard and called kroket. Locals wash down both varieties with beer.

Frekedel: a shredded fish dipped in egg and bread crumbs, rolled into balls, and deep fried.

Friet or Batata: french fries -- served in paper cones or Styrofoam cups -- that can be topped with ketchup; mayo; curry, peanut, or hot sauce; onions; and more.

Keshi Yena: a baked concoction of Gouda cheese, spices, and meat or seafood in a rich brown sauce.

Nasibal: a lump of seasoned rice in a crunchy coating.

Pan Bati: a pancake made of cornmeal, sugar, salt, and baking powder; eaten with meat, fish, or soup.

Pastechi: deep-fried meat, cheese, potato, or seafood-filled turnovers, popular for breakfast. Smaller versions are called empanas.

Raspao: a paper cup full of shaved ice that's drenched in tamarind, guava, or passion-fruit syrup.

Roti: chicken, seafood, or vegetable curry in a tortilla-like wrap.

Saté: marinated chunks of chicken or pork on a bamboo skewer, grilled and served with spicy peanut sauce.

Tosti: the ultimate grilled-cheese sandwich, often made with ham and pineapple or pepperoni.

Cool Concoctions

These drink recipes come from Aruban-born bartender Clive Van Der Linde.

The Wow. Mix equal parts (2 ounces or so) of rum and vodka as well as triple sec, a splash of tequila, grenadine, coconut cream, and pineapple and orange juice. Quips Van Der Linde, "You won't taste the alcohol, but after two, you'll feel pretty good."

The Iguana. Mix equal parts of rum and vodka, and add either blue Curaçao or blue grenadine for color. Add crème de banana liqueur, coconut cream, and pineapple juice. Says Van Der Linde, "I learned this one more than 10 years ago on the first sailing boat I worked on. It was called the Balia, which means 'to dance.' "

The Captain's Special. Mix equal parts of rum and vodka, and add a splash of amaretto, crème de banana, and pineapple and orange juice. "It's really simple," says Van Der Linde. "Just blend with crushed ice and it's ready to drink."

They Like It Hot

Arubans like their food spicy, and that's where the island's famous Madame Janette sauce comes in handy. It's made with chili peppers that are so hot they can burn your skin when they're broken open. Whether they're turned into pika, a relishlike mixture made with papaya, or sliced thin into vinegar and onions, these peppers are sure to set your mouth ablaze. Throw even a modest amount of Madame Janette sauce into a huge pot of soup and your taste buds will tingle. (Referring to the sauce's spicy nature, Aruban men often refer to an attractive woman as a "Madame Janette.")

To tame the flames, don't go for a glass of water, as capsaicin, the compound in peppers that produces the heat, isn't water soluble. Dairy products, sweet fruits, and starchy foods such as rice and bread are the best remedies.

The Divi-Divi Tree

Like a statuesque dancer in a graceful flat-back pose, the watapana, or divi-divi tree, is one of Aruba's hallmarks. Oddly enough, this tropical shrub is a member of the legume family. Its astringent pods contain high levels of tannin, which is leached out for tanning leather. The pods also yield a black dye. The tree has a moderate rate of growth and a high drought tolerance. Typically it reaches no more than 25 feet in height, with a flattened crown and irregular, forked branches. Its leaves are dull green, and its inconspicuous yet fragrant flowers are pale yellow or white and grow in small clusters. Thanks to constant trade winds, the divi-divis serve as a natural compass: they're bent toward the island's leeward -- or western -- side, where most of the hotels are.

The Goods on Gouda

Each year Holland exports more than 250,000 tons of cheese to more than 100 countries, and Gouda (pronounced how-da) is one of the most popular. Gouda, named for the city where it's produced, travels well and gets harder, saltier, and more flavorful as it ages. There are six types of Gouda: young (at least 4 weeks old), semi-major (8 weeks old), major (4 months old), ultra-major (7 months old), old (10 months old), and vintage (more than a year old). When buying cheese in shops in Aruba, look for the control seal that confirms the name of the cheese, its country of origin, its fat content, and that it was officially inspected.